Rahat Loukoum Serge Lutens

Source: jetsetfashionmagazine.com

Source: www.auparfum.com

I fell in love with Rahat Loukoum in Barney's New York but thankfully did not buy it (Well on hindsight, at that time I was kicking myself for not getting it but I was held back by the bell jar form, it's pretty but I'm no good with dabbing and would most likely end up pouring the entire bottle in a very costly accident). Back in Singapore and back on the daily web hunt, I found out to my eternal happiness that it's now available in the "Le Vaporisateur" form which is 2x30 ml with an included shiny jet black travel case AND it's cheaper than the bell jar would have cost me in Barney's. 

I had The People Of The Labyrinths' Luctor Et Emergo on my want list, which in short is Coca-cola's Dark Cherry Vanilla coke plus bitter almond with some smoke trails of incense in the background. Anyway, Rahat Loukoum has kicked Luctor Et Emergo off the want list and let me explain why.

Rahat Loukoum is a warmer relative of Louve, the bitter medicinal almond from Serge Lutens. It's much less sweeter than the jordan almonds in Keiko Mercheri's Loukhoum Eau Poudree (I have this out of the Loukhoum trio), doesn't have the powder of Mazzolari's Alessandro and makes me think of Luctor Et Emergo but that's not to say they are similar as they aren't really. To put it in simpler terms and in proportions,

Rahat Loukoum: amaretto + cherry + honey

Luctor Et Emergo: cherry + vanilla + almond

Comparing Rahat Loukoum with Louve, the latter gives the impression of being more aloof and bitter, whereas Rahat Loukoum would be a boozed up Louve, all flushed cheeks and warm feelings. Neither is superior to the other and both have a similar drydown that is nutty and slightly musky, bottled comfort made for snuggling. I find the projection of Rahat Loukoum to be stronger than Louve but the longevity for both are equally good.

I did a side by side testing with another of my almond loves, Hilde Soliani's Conaffetto and surprisingly after wearing Rahat Loukoum the whole day, Conaffetto seems less bitter and I can pick up the lovely orange blossom more strongly. Whereas Conaffetto smells fresh and bright, the Lutens is more boozy amaretto cherries. 

Those looking for an inexpensive substitute for Rahat Loukoum might want to sample Les Nereides' Douceur de Vanille, that is more about bitter almonds than its name suggests, with a drydown that has the equivalent effect of an anxiolytic.

All in all, it's been a fabulous day smelling of almonds.