Tendre Est La Nuit Majda Bekkali Sculptures Olfactives

Source: shinycreation.com

I took a quick look at the notes for Tendre Est La Nuit on Fragrantica, realised I haven't smelt quite a number of them and decided not to bother describing things I don't know and work out what I do smell even if it's not what's listed. 

I am strongly reminded of Parfum d`Empire Ambre Russe, likely strongly reminded, don't call me crazy. I dug out my sample of Ambre Russe to compare and I stand by what I say, well minus the vodka opening of Ambre Russe. Calling Tendre Est La Nuit a boozy oriental leather in a nutshell might be overly simplistic but that's the major part of the scent, something I didn't expect by its name but am quite enjoying. 

I smell boozy, syrup-engorged (immortelle maple syrup like) fruit like in Serge Lutens' Arabie but instead of the all-spice mix of Arabie there is pepper, smoky resins and balms which I can't tell apart but together with the pepper gives Tendre Est La Nuit it's oriental genes, a smooth tanned leather like in Anubis from Papillon Artisan Perfumes and a dark earthy patchouli. A thick, concentrated scent that seems to transform from its syrupy start to a dry fine dust over time, almost like musty old books that have been sprayed with the perfume. 

I prefer Tendre Est La Nuit to Ambre Russe for being an easier digestif to swallow, Tendre Est La Nuit imbibes but stops short of heavy drinking, while with Ambre Russe although being wearable art, one still has to be in the right mood to wear it without being worn out by the whole experience. Tendre Est La Nuit is a heavy scent with a big projection so I would be careful with applying this to avoid inducing headaches and/or nausea, but its strength fades out over time so that by the eighth hour it's a pleasant skin scent. P.S: I was putting clothes aside for laundry when I smelt a most gorgeous smoky, sweet and dark patchouli coming from the top I had used when wearing Tendre Est la Nuit more than 24 hours ago. Beautiful!

Amber Russe Parfum d'Empire

Inebriated amber ahead.

Wow. I smell like I just emptied the better part of a vodka bottle on myself. It's drowned out whatever champagne there is in the top notes for me too. All I smell for the first ten minutes is vodka, vodka and more vodka. 

After my liver and nose have digested the vodka, I smell leather or birch tar or birch tar tanned leather, anyway it's tanned animal hides for sure. The juniper adds a crisp and sweet evergreen note reminiscent of how driving past a forest of conifers smelt in autumn going into winter.  

The amber in Ambre Russe then makes its way slowly into the scent just as I was wondering where it was. It slinks in like a knowing feline, with smoky incense trailing behind, causing a stir in the crowd and the temperature to rise. It's as if the booze has really set into your system, your pulse is racing, your face is flushed and the heat radiating off your skin smells musky. 

The dark sultry amber takes centre stage in the dry down, her voice raspy from too much smoke and drink, her leather coat with its layers of smells accumulated from all the nights spent in a bar or a club. She's lowers her guard with each shot downed, her sooty eyes and red lips are sexily smudged and her inhibitions are scattered to the wind. She's intoxicated but not vulgar, just effusive and affectionate. Having a really good time. 

Ambre Russe is definitely a unique experience and one that I would like to repeat. A wearable olfactory piece of art that will definitely make people around you pause and admire. It's unisex but I can foresee some avoiding it because of the booze overload. An unusual take on amber that all amber lovers should at least sample. I am very happy I did and found the creative spirit in perfumery still very much alive! 

Note: probably best not to wear in the office or places where you are expected to be sober.