Paname Keiko Mecheri

Source: Fragrantica

I was interested in procuring a sample if not a bottle of Douce Amere from Serge Lutens as it is another polarizing scent from this house whose online reviews make for good reading. I got a sample of Paname as it is supposed to closely resemble the hard-to-find-if-not-impossible Douce Amere. 

According to Wikipedia, Paname is a nickname given by Parisians to their city and in the book "I remember Paris" by journalist and historian Claude Dubois who writes about his childhood memories of Paname, the origin of the nickname has contributions from the Panama hat that was a fashion trend in the city, the hat itself having been worn by workers building the Panama canal and possibly having links with the Panama Affair which is regarded as the largest corruption scandal of the 19th century.

" ...Paname...la ville du chatoiement, des illusions et des désillusions..."

Sweet and interesting. Upon application the smell immediately reminded me of black licorice, something I prefer smelling than eating with its distinct herbal and spicy sweetness like the spiciness of cardamom seeds or anise. The licorice smell is more herbal than in Lolita Lempicka which is much, much sweeter than this scent. Paname is invigorating and aromatic like a bottled walk in a conifer forest, I can imagine it being sold as an aromatherapy potion labelled "Vitality". The balance between herbal and sweetness shifts more towards the latter in the drydown when a creamy vanilla note shows up and the scent is deepened with musk and wood notes. My only gripe with Paname is that it disappears far too quickly, I barely smell anything left after two hours. Full marks for its refreshing individuality but it lags behind in the sillage and longevity departments.

L'Oiseau de Nuit Parfumerie Generale

L'Oiseau de Nuit. The Night Bird has landed in my hands from a Luckyscent sample. 

Now this is good stuff. 

It opens with a smell similar to lemongrass-herbal, bittersweet and green. The medicinal part abates a bit and I smell the leather that makes me think of really buttery soft leather gloves that you never want to take off but you have to because the SA is staring at you suspiciously and the price-tag is astronomical. 

There's an animal in this scent and I don't mean the name. It smells like an unwashed beast...but I like it...in the scent that is. Not the actual beast up close, I've dated enough of those thank you.


The Odalisque, Aldophe Weisz 1884

I smell sweet smoky resins, which one exactly I can never tell, I get mixed up with the different types of balsams and resins. The official notes list labdanum and benzoin.

The scent twists and turns on me like smoke does in the air, now I get the herbal bitterness, now I get then thick resinous sweetness, then I get the leather and the unwashed beast. 

Sillage is very very good, considering I applied a little bit from a dab sample to my right elbow and I can smell this as clear as if I had my wrist stuck to my nose...that's good in my books. 

My first full bottle worthy PG scent, I may even spring for the 100 ml bottle. Definitely reinvigorated to try more!