De Profundis Serge Lutens

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: www.beauty.at

One must love mums. Chrysanthemums that is. 

I digress but don't you love it when Serge Lutens decides to magic one of the deeply coveted bell jar perfumes into an export edition? I know I practically go giddy. So when I heard a rumour that there was going to be a limited release of De Proundis, in the sleek and glossy black flacon of the Le vaporisateur tout noir range that also houses other much-loved scents such as the delicious Rahat Loukoum, the wonderful if weird Silver Iris Mist that is more an experience than a perfume I can wear, my holy grail of all ambers- Ambre Sultan and Féminité du Bois-a warm, sweet and spiced woody scent that's all around perfect.

Chrysanthemum is the dominant note in De Profundis for me. The green yet floral scent that is characteristic of chrysanthemums is clear and vibrant throughout the moderate longevity of the fragrance on my skin. Light powdery floral notes form the background for De Profundis and I detect a clean almost austere note of incense in the heart.

Despite the associations of death and decay with De Profundis, I find it to evoke peace and tranquility, happy memories even. Chrysanthemum tea is a popular favourite which goes well with the lengthy and often boisterous Sunday dim sum brunches, where family and/or friends gather to eat, drink and be very noisy. Red, orange and gold/yellow chrysanthemums are also a staple decoration for the Lunar New Year, the colours being auspicious ones for the celebration.

I have longed to try De Profundis for so many years and it's such a pleasure to finally hold and smell it. For me, full bottle worthy but I am an avid Lutens fan, albeit more of the earlier work than the recent releases.

Iris de Nuit James Heeley

Desirability: Full bottle

In the description listed on Heeley's website, "♀ : Sensual, delicate, creative and individual." 

Springtime (The Reader) Monet. Source: pinterest

Iris de Nuit is a more wearable version of Iris Silver Mist- at least it is to me. I am a huge Lutens fan but as much as I admire the artistry of Iris Silver Mist, it's a bit hard going sometimes between the two of us. If the Lutens was steely silver and Tauer Pentachords White aptly named, then Iris de Nuit wears like a soft mossy green. A stroll alone through Nature, surrounded by living things and shrouded in sunlight. A time for introspection. 

It opens with a bit of sharp pepper, the starchy orris is front and centre throughout, delicate powdery violets and the vegetal sweetness of angelica that's just a teeny bit green, which I've grown to love thanks to the herbal nectar that is Angélique Noire. Although Angélique Noire feels quite fine, Iris de Nuit is even lighter and dry. A calming woody musk keeps the scent from being too ethereal. I read somewhere that cedar is used as a "grounding" note and I can see how it flexes its muscles in Iris de Nuit. Projection is good and longevity average, I got about 8 hours of wear each time. 

I find myself agreeing with the vignette from the official website (as above), Iris de Nuit is not a giddy girl or brash lout, instead he/she would be content in a library or art class, the kind who is comfortable not speaking to anyone for days without feeling lonely but on the other hand can be relied on being charming and sociable. The type that most people remember warmly without truly knowing intimately, being described as "different" without any negative connotations attached. 

Misia Chanel

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: pinterest

Violet scents were what led me into the world of fragrances. I was obsessed with smelling everything with violet flowers and leaves from dewy life-like violets to dark, moody violets. As a result I don't just have a violet corner in my wardrobe but a full section with violets to suit my every need. Even then, I still keep adding new discoveries but at a much less feverish pace.

If like me, you adore the smell of Guerlain lipsticks with their waxy floral scent, you have to try Misia. Violets, roses, powdery iris and lots of buttery orris abound in Misia which shares some vintage make-up elements with Lipstick Rose but on me, Misia is more powdery and green (at the beginning) whereas Lipstick Rose is rather sensual and musky all the way. I don't find them similar at all actually.

It starts off with aldehydes and fresh flowers, the powder quickly presenting itself and at this stage Misia is very feminine and delicate. It gradually deepens and feels more tangible with the entrance of orris, resins and vanilla. The drydown is a heavenly affair between the flowers, powder and balmy base notes with most of the green-ness gone by now. Lipstick Rose feels more solidly reassuring whereas Misia seems more flighty- I mean I know Lipstick Rose is there all the way whereas the illusion of diaphaneity lets Misia play hide and seek with my olfactory nerve.

I'm very much in the camp of "wear what you like" but I find it hard to categorize Misia as anything but female. Or should I say feminine. Where Lipstick Rose reminded me of knockout cheesecake models, Misia brings images of Art Deco fashion to mind- simple outlines using gorgeous top quality materials. The scent has soft to average projection but stays on me for quite a number of hours.

Spending time with both Misia and Lipstick Rose put me in the mood for classics and I shall share this precious song that came to mind.

Jo Stafford. You Belong To Me

La Violette Annick Goutal

Desirability: Full bottle and back up

After the excesses of the last three days thanks to the Lunar New Year festivities and gorging myself silly with all kinds of heavy traditional food, it is nice to cut back and what better way than with a beautiful soliflore like La Violette? 

I am not much of a green floral person but there's something about Annick Goutal's floral creations that are whimsical and appeal to the girly girl in me, particularly La Violette and Un Matin d'Orage. They share this similar DNA sequence that is unique to this house so much so that you could recognise an Annick Goutal floral blindfolded. 

Sweet violet flowers and tiny buds of roses balanced with the zing of fresh green leaves so realistic it is as if you are crushing a leaf between your fingers and smelling the green stain left upon them. La Violette truly smells like the promise of Spring in a bottle. Delicate and feminine, unpretentious yet polished, slightly shy yet welcoming, cool yet sunny disposition. 

I find La Violette to be a happier violet than the "bleue" Apres l'Ondee which is a gorgeous if subtle and ever so misty-eyed violet on me. Out of the two, La Violette has the bigger projection and also lasts longer although not above the four hour mark but for the time that it lingers around, it is a sheer comfort like letting all the stress out with a big sigh. 

Stephen Jones Comme des Garcons & Stephen Jones

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: www.notenom.com

An interesting and wearable violet.

I may find a scent interesting and original but that does not necessarily mean I would feel comfortable wearing it, instead preferring to treasure it as a piece of art. Comme des Garcons & Stephen Jones combine both the weird and wonderful in Stephen Jones making it wearable olfactory art, which is a trait that is seen in most of the creations from Comme des Garcons that I've had the pleasure to try. Intriguing and creative.

There's something tart and spicy about this violet, breaking away from the traditional mould of candied innocent violet flowers. It is partly airy with the violet flowers and leaves smelling natural and sweetly green but Stephen Jones isn't about a posy of violets. There's a snowstorm of aldehydes like sparkling diamond dust all over the violets, enough to tickle your nose and your fancies if you are into violets and aldehydes as a pair. Oh and back to the tart spiciness...reminiscent of aromatic herbs, they add a piquancy to the dusted violets. I smell incense and woody notes later on but the violet flowers and leaves along with the spiced powdery notes are the main players throughout. 

Original and charming from beginning to end, overall it feels dry, brisk and rather modern but yet there's an old-fashioned vibe from the gentle and sweet violet powder. Unisex and although it might not be everyone's cup of tea, I doubt anyone could say that Stephen Jones is staid or boring! 

Parisienne Yves Saint Laurent

Source: vogue.fr

Parisienne was there at the beginning of my perfume fetish, together with my first Serge Lutens...Ambre Sultan, Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle, Thierry Mugler's Angel, Dior's Forever and Ever and the whichever was the current summer edition from Escada ( my favourites were Ibiza Hippie and Rockin' Rio). 

Feminine and versatile, it's perfect for daily use. Not too sweet with the teeniest bit of something tangy, it's a delightful cocktail of juicy berries and delicate flowers mainly roses and violets. Lively and flirty this feels and smells as if I'm diving into my make-up bag between the powders and lipsticks, it has that make-up effect also seen in Guerlain Insolence and Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, minus the powder.

Its longevity and projection puts some pricier perfumes to shame. All in all a great subtle fruity floral for any occasion. 

Pentachords White Tauer

Desirability: Decant

Source: Fragrantica

In a nutshell, this smells like a rich vanilla cake with a thick frosting of buttercream and decorated with crystallized violets. The initial part truly does smell gourmand but after some time, a powdery sweet iris emerges from all this richness, in a delicate posy with fresh violets. In the drydown, the powder drifts away to be replaced by warm woody notes backing the suede-like iris and sweet violets.

This is comfort in a bottle, be it stuffing your face with decadent treats or nestling in a rocking chair before a warm fireplace with the smell of an approaching Spring in the cool air. Average projection with good longevity, I get at least eight hours wear. A much more approachable take on iris than Lutens' Iris Silver Mist which I enjoy smelling but not wearing. 

Champaca Absolute Tom Ford

Source: irecommend.ru

Although I agree with the general consensus that the perfumes are well-made and smell expensive, I like but do not feel the need to have most of the fragrances I've tried from Tom Ford except for a few that include Champaca Absolute from the Private Blend range. It's probably down to chemistry but where many get all sorts of dirty business with Black Orchid all I get is floral talcum powder and perhaps Noir de Noir would have been more attractive in 2007 than when I first smelt it in 2012 along with other versions of the same song Rose-Patchouli. 

Champaca Absolute has a short spurt of dark booziness when first applied before turning sweet and sheer with floral notes of magnolia (with its usual creamy thickness stripped away), violet and the smell of a newly ripened banana with no black spots marring its pristine yellow colour as yet. The freshness gradually slips away and leaves a dusty layer over the flowers and fruit (well just the banana that is) with a scattering of new wood shavings on top. It doesn't get any darker than this and remains like a gauzy veil wrapped around you for about six hours or so. Overall I find it original, bright and leaning on the feminine side of the scale. 

Lipstick Rose Frederic Malle

Desirability: Full bottle

Lipstick Rose was one of the first violets I tried when I started falling in love with violet scents slightly more than two years ago now. So how does she compare with other violet/powder combinations?

Source: glamourdaze.com

If you can't choose between violets or roses Lipstick Rose may be the perfect answer for you, having both violets and roses and vintage compact type powder, (think Besame's 1940s chic violet powder compact) it also stays true to its name with a waxy lipstick smell. Lipstick Rose eclipsed my first violet love Guerlain's Insolence Eau de Parfum, a thickly berried and candied violet covered with a good dose of retro-licious powder. I prefer the musky undertones of Lipstick Rose and that it's not as sugary sweet but Insolence EDP has its charms for sure. 

My sister keeps Creed's Love in Black as a staple in her wardrobe and although I've never been a fan of Creed I decided to try it since it smelt like an alluring goddess scent on her. This is where chemistry reminds us again that it is important as Love in Black started dry and earthy ( I think the iris showed up more than the violet) on me before evolving into a candied berried violet that loses its steam over time and becomes a tame floral perfume at the end featuring iris and violets. Not bad but nothing to write home about either.

Source: pinupgirlclothing.com

Borsari's Violetta di Parma, Parfums Berdoues' Violettes de Toulouse Eau de Parfum and Penhaligon's Violetta are all lovely powdery violets but Borsari although inexpensive is too linear and not long lasting, Violettes de Toulouse has a plastic fruitiness that overshadows the violet note and Violetta I have resigned to a pillow spray due to its dismal longevity. 

Lipstick Rose does smell like how Guerlain's lipsticks smell, a similar waxy floral smell but here the flowers are sweet violets and roses, very feminine in a retro style like full circle skirts, T-bar shoes and crimped hairstyles. There's a vanilla tinged musk that's fluffy like cotton candy and smells more like white than dark musk, although white musk tends to feel a bit stretched out and thin compared to dark musk which smells more concentrated and potent. The vanilla musk only comes in in the later half of the scent for me but it's a sublime ending for me, a perfect medley between two of my favourite floral notes and a creamy vanilla muskiness. 

Wearing Lipstick Rose, I am taken back to the musical/movie Grease and in particular am reminded of Frenchy with her candy floss pink hair after a disastrous day in beauty school which resulted in her dropping out. 

Dans Tes Bras Frederic Malle

It was during my search for the perfect violet two years ago that I met Dans Tes Bras and the Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums, of which I am a devotee. 

Dans Tes Bras did not have a promising opening to match its affectionate name and we almost gave up on the relationship from there. It started out chilly and metallic, nothing like the fresh sweet violets of Annick Goutal's La Violette or the Ophelia-like Apres L'ondee, it seemed more a relative to the hyper green Les Nez's Unicorn Spell and the astral violet Stephen Jones by Comme des Garcons. "It's Maurice Roucel," I said to myself and kept faith even though this was clearly not going to be Guerlain's pouting candied violet Insolence Eau de Parfum. 

So Dans Tes Bras stepped in from the icy cold, letting in the arctic wind that sent me into a recoil. Sensing my distress, he chased the chilly elements out and closed the door of our mountain home, made of rough hewn logs and stone with walls of leaded glass. I jumped up for a cuddle, happy that he was home and stayed in his arms for a long moment, breathing in the combination of my favourite slightly powdery sweet violet perfume and the outdoorsy smell of musk and woods rising from his skin heated up from his morning workout outside. The smell of intimacy.

  And we lived happily ever after. 

Dans Tes Bras keeps close to you like a security blanket or a comforting hug and hangs around for a very long time. Like until you shower and wash your clothes. Worth at least a sample if you enjoy violets and skin musks. Clean skin. Just ride out the strange hospital 90% alcohol antiseptic opening.