Spending Valentine's Day 2017 with a new love... Le Beau Parfum Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: Fragrantica.com

Valentine's Day 2017, which lucky scent is sharing today with you? I recently caved in and ordered Baccarat Rouge 540 off the Francis Kurkdjian website, together with a bottle of Lumiere Noire Pour Femme body lotion as a gift to myself. I received as samples, the new Aqua Celestia in a travel size (which I haven't tried yet), Le Beau Parfum and Lumiere Noire Pour Homme (tinkling with the idea of gifting this in the future).

Back to Le Beau Parfum. Must, MUST love big fat white florals to enjoy this. It's not a diva like Fracas but it's definitely not a shrinking violet (although I love my violets and I don't think it's quite fair to the flower, but origins of the quote here). As Savage Garden cheesily crooned " I knew I loved you before I met you", I guessed correctly that I would love Le Beau Parfum once I read the notes and I mean it is a Kurkdjian creation...digressing a little here but there is a fellow perfumehead who wrote in a forum that she wants to have his babies...I totally understand that sentiment. 

With tuberose, orange blossom, ylang ylang and jasmine arranged according to the intensity that I perceive of each note, Le Beau Parfum is a classy floral that is seamless and uncomplicated. Candid as well as rather candied (not toothachingly sweet but it is sweet), it stays constant from start to finish, starting strong and remaining clearly noticeable even after the end of a work day and a vigorous gym session on top of that. Terms that come to mind when describing Le Beau Parfum would include: decidedly feminine, elegant, sweetly innocent, lush, exotic...oh just think Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday and you'll get my drift! 

Le Beau Parfum is the answer to my recent craving for new undiscovered white florals. I tried Creed's Love In White which is a lovely mix of zesty and creamy, less sweet than Le Beau Parfum but similarly innocent and unaffected. I also tried Les Exclusifs de Chanel Beige...I had hoped to enjoy this but it's so....prosaic? Like a person whom one can have neither good nor bad things to describe. Kudos to those who love Beige and can relate to its beauty but it's just not for me. Taste and colours as they say...Anyway I know exactly what I'm ordering next from the MFK website. What about you? What lovely florals have you been craving recently?

Happy Valentine's Day to one and all! I leave you with a perennial favourite poem...

I do not love you as if you were salt-rose, or topaz,

or the arrow of carnations the fire shoots off.

I love you as certain dark things are to be loved,

in secret, between the shadow and the soul.

I love you as the plant that never blooms

but carries in itself the light of hidden flowers;

thanks to your love a certain solid fragrance,

risen from the earth, lives darkly in my body.

I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where.

I love you straightforwardly, without complexities or pride;

so I love you because I know no other way

than this: where I does not exist, nor you,

so close that your hand on my chest is my hand,

so close that your eyes close as I fall asleep. 

Pablo Neruda

Nin-Shar Jul et Mad Paris

Desirability: Full bottle and a back up

Source: pinterest

I have heard/read of instances in which people observe a moment's silence when opening a rare fine wine or brandy, out of respect or perhaps silent awe. "Dear God!" was my first thought when sniffing the opened bottle of Nin-Shar (in the cute Love Dose 5ml size as was a semi-blind buy, I say semi-blind because I had a very pleasant encounter with Néa and therefore was confident that I would love its sibling too. With rose, oud and incense listed in its notes, it's a safe bet for me). After a deliriously happy albeit silent moment during which my olfactory nerves imbibed greedily on this glorious juice, my second thought was "I need a bigger bottle! STAT!" 

It seems like almost every house whether niche or mainstream has a rose/oud combination and the huge selection is quite fatiguing after the initial excitement wore off. Nin-Shar stands out from the competition because of its luscious rose jam note that is dripping with berries in syrup and packed with dark red roses in full bloom. This dessert rose shares some similarities with other jammy roses like Parfumerie Generale's PG13 Brulure de Rose or Sådanne . However the patchouli, incense and oud pull the fragrance away from the gourmand territory and the result is a sophisticated broody rose indulging in a glass of burgundy, surrounded by opulent trappings. Everything about Nin-Shar is rich and rooted in quality ingredients, projection is *moderate and longevity is very good on me. 

*my fellow colleagues beg to differ and insist that projection is enormous as apparently they can smell me down the hall which is no small feat. They have further claimed that anyone spending more than five minutes in my room comes out smelling of boozy roses. I leave you to be your own judge! :)

De Profundis Serge Lutens

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: www.beauty.at

One must love mums. Chrysanthemums that is. 

I digress but don't you love it when Serge Lutens decides to magic one of the deeply coveted bell jar perfumes into an export edition? I know I practically go giddy. So when I heard a rumour that there was going to be a limited release of De Proundis, in the sleek and glossy black flacon of the Le vaporisateur tout noir range that also houses other much-loved scents such as the delicious Rahat Loukoum, the wonderful if weird Silver Iris Mist that is more an experience than a perfume I can wear, my holy grail of all ambers- Ambre Sultan and Féminité du Bois-a warm, sweet and spiced woody scent that's all around perfect.

Chrysanthemum is the dominant note in De Profundis for me. The green yet floral scent that is characteristic of chrysanthemums is clear and vibrant throughout the moderate longevity of the fragrance on my skin. Light powdery floral notes form the background for De Profundis and I detect a clean almost austere note of incense in the heart.

Despite the associations of death and decay with De Profundis, I find it to evoke peace and tranquility, happy memories even. Chrysanthemum tea is a popular favourite which goes well with the lengthy and often boisterous Sunday dim sum brunches, where family and/or friends gather to eat, drink and be very noisy. Red, orange and gold/yellow chrysanthemums are also a staple decoration for the Lunar New Year, the colours being auspicious ones for the celebration.

I have longed to try De Profundis for so many years and it's such a pleasure to finally hold and smell it. For me, full bottle worthy but I am an avid Lutens fan, albeit more of the earlier work than the recent releases.

Al Ward Al Taifi Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Desirability: sample

Source: www.arabianperfume.ru

Very life-like but too soft for my liking, wearing Al Taifi is like having rose petals caress your skin leaving a faint trace of their scent behind. Emphasis on the word faint. Delicate, green and rosy, it's a youthful scent miles away from the so called "grandma" types of rose perfumes. Youthful but not juvenile, it has the same lighthearted charm as A La Rose but without the powdery floral aspect of the Kurkdjian. 

Both Al Taifi and Ambergris Taifi have the costly Taif rose as an ingredient, the version of Al Taifi I wore is an EDP whereas Ambergris Taifi is a perfume oil. Where Al Taifi remains linear and true to the scent of a rose throughout its average lifetime, Ambergris Taifi has its rose petals mixed with a creamy amber and an animalic edge from the ambergris. The latter also lasts pretty much forever from just a small smidge of the perfume oil. 

Rima XI Carner Barcelona

Desirability: Decant

Source: pinterest

Rice pudding was my first thought on sniffing Rima XI applied to the crook of my elbow. Jeux de Peau was my second thought. It does have that salty sweetness that I love about the gourmand Lutens but where Jeux de Peau conjures up a reel of memories taken from a warm bakery on a cold day, Rima XI brings to mind the Asian dessert of silky rice pudding flavoured with vanilla and gently powdered with spices. 

It starts off rather dry, with the spices (cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg) dominating the scent at first but mellowing as time progresses, underneath is the creamy rice pudding that is a good balance of sweet and savoury. I like eating rice pudding but smelling like it for hours would not be as enjoyable, thankfully the spices break the mundaneness here in Rima XI. The scent gradually morphs from a gourmand into a soft woody amber base with a little musk. A comfort scent from start to finish. 

By the way this scent doesn't bloom as well on paper as it does on skin, so don't test it on paper. It also performs better in the heat, the scent projects much more than it does in my "colder" office where it creeps back to the skin. Overall I find it a rather light scent with average longevity of about 6 hours. 

Nice but not super interesting which is why I'm happy with my decant.  

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille Annick Goutal

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: pinterest

For patchouli lovers. 

"Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair." - Khalil Gibran

Source: pinterest

A plum and patchouli combination that is miles apart from another plum/patch that I have, the sweet and rather gourmand-esque Isvaraya. Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille is Nature bottled if Nature to you means the smell of earth...leaves and dirt literally. Appealing? For me on certain days yes. On this day of Equinox, I am feeling rather nostalgic for autumnal colours and smells. Instead of veering down the path of fall gourmands with cinnamon and spices, I have decided to regain balance with Mon Parfum Chéri while cooped up indoors. 

A powdery opening sweetened with tart plums and restrained vanilla. Patchouli is the heavyweight here, an almost gloomy, earthy and bitter patchouli that makes me feel like I'm digging in the dirt, bare hands and all. It does not ever lighten up and in this case the bottle truly matches the scent for Mon Parfum Chéri is both bold and dark throughout its lifetime. I can only pick out iris, plum and patchouli of course, but this scent feels way more complex than it reads. Lasts forever and with good projection,  Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille is a full-bodied olfactory masterpiece that is very different from the ethereal beauties I'm used to from this house. This is not a scent for parties and socializing but a private scent for spells of solitary introspection.

I believe that Mon Parfum Cheri is full bottle worthy but it is definitely a try before you buy scent. 

Lady Vengeance Juliette Has A Gun

Desirability: Sample

Source: pinterest

For rose patchouli lovers just dipping their toes in niche-land. 

Lady Vengeance isn't quite as menacing as her name or her appearance makes her out to be. On the contrary she is actually quite charming. A modern and refined blend of tender roses, patchouli so affable that even patchouli haters might be won over, gourmand vanilla and dries down to a balmy base of amber and musk tinged with the lingering scent of roses and earth. Beautifully combined in a smooth manner that only Francis Kurkdjian can. Lady Vengeance is a scent that you can wear anywhere, it is not too sweet and not too sexy, it is not too much of anything really. Projection is decent and longevity average. 

Looking back I might have enjoyed this much more if  we had met earlier on my perfume travels. Having been spoilt with so much choice in the rose/patchouli department, I have to say this is pleasant but there is a whole world out there to discover instead of stopping here. Which brings to mind a favourite poem by Robert Frost...

Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village, though; 
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sound's the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark, and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep. 

For me I have vials to go before I am done sniffing!

Habanita Molinard

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: Fragrantica

Refined. Warm. Inviting.

Habanita is more my cup of leather/vanilla than the whisper-soft suede/vanilla that is Cuir Beluga from Guerlain's exclusive L 'Art et la Matière line. As much as I am a loyal fan of Guerlain and as much as I appreciate the quality and class of Cuir Beluga...it's a shade too sheer for my enjoyment, resembling the easygoing soft suede Cuir Ottoman, a scent I like but not love. 

Habanita is definitely not a light fragrance but neither is it as dark and dangerous as its bottle suggests and I can't recommend this as a "strictly" leather scent. Put it simply, both Cuir Beluga and Cuir Ottoman are blonde suedes and Habanita is a dark suede. When asked to recommend leather scents, what comes to mind are the likes of Cuir de Russie, Anubis and Cuir Mauresque to name a few. Habanita wears more like an Oriental vanilla scent, infused with a leather note that is more prominent at the beginning then fading away by the drydown. Never harsh but a smooth and thoroughly enjoyable polished leather smell that captures the luxuriousness of Habanita as it smoulders its way into an amber base- sweet vanilla with a generous amount of smoky resins thrown emanating a heart-warming glow for hours.

A wonderful creation with an average projection and very good longevity. I recently adopted a bottle of this beauty who keeps her softer and more feminine sibling Habanita L'Esprit company. By the way I know there is endless debate on whether Habanita L'Esprit deserves to be named as such and having spent time with both, I do agree that they share DNA. 

Io Carthusia

Desirability: Full Bottle

Source: Fragrantica

Philosykos EDT was the first fig perfume I owned and while I still enjoy it, I've since discovered other figs to love. There is Dambrosia which morphs from fresh fig fruit to delicious fig desserts as the hours pass to Ichnusa from the same brand Profumum Roma, an intricate green fig so very different from the gourmand Dambrosia. Another love has to be Ninfeo Mio that manages to be fresh, sweet and green at the same time, exuding a natural air that Annick Goutal excels at. 

Having had a very good first experience with Ligea La Sirena from the house of Carthusia, I was eager to try more from the line which has led me to Io. I'm not the biggest fan of aromatic scents or colognes but the thought of fig, mint and tea together sounded too good to pass up. Io is marvellous, like a bottled Spring that revives the spirits instantly or a holiday in the Mediterranean (which would definitely revive my spirits). Dry, green, fresh, sweet, woody, aromatic...Io is all of that at once and lies on the same side of the scale as Ichnusa and Ninfeo Mio.

Fresh mint, sweet fig and tart green notes are the major players in Io. I don't detect a tea note but it does smell like herbs were thrown into the concoction and in any case Io is as good a healer of the soul as a cuppa tea. It's a fig scent without being fig-centered, clearly there is more to it than just fruit and leaves. Io is not just a scent but an experience, it takes you under the cool shade of fig trees over which is a blistering sun of a hot summer's day, sipping mojitos on a hammock and watching distant waves lazily kissing the shore, not near enough to hear them but the wind sweeps in the cool salty air which rustles through the leaves above you, the music of Nature putting finishing touches on this idyllic moment.

Projection is ok and longevity about average but it's such a joy to reapply this! 

Misia Chanel

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: pinterest

Violet scents were what led me into the world of fragrances. I was obsessed with smelling everything with violet flowers and leaves from dewy life-like violets to dark, moody violets. As a result I don't just have a violet corner in my wardrobe but a full section with violets to suit my every need. Even then, I still keep adding new discoveries but at a much less feverish pace.

If like me, you adore the smell of Guerlain lipsticks with their waxy floral scent, you have to try Misia. Violets, roses, powdery iris and lots of buttery orris abound in Misia which shares some vintage make-up elements with Lipstick Rose but on me, Misia is more powdery and green (at the beginning) whereas Lipstick Rose is rather sensual and musky all the way. I don't find them similar at all actually.

It starts off with aldehydes and fresh flowers, the powder quickly presenting itself and at this stage Misia is very feminine and delicate. It gradually deepens and feels more tangible with the entrance of orris, resins and vanilla. The drydown is a heavenly affair between the flowers, powder and balmy base notes with most of the green-ness gone by now. Lipstick Rose feels more solidly reassuring whereas Misia seems more flighty- I mean I know Lipstick Rose is there all the way whereas the illusion of diaphaneity lets Misia play hide and seek with my olfactory nerve.

I'm very much in the camp of "wear what you like" but I find it hard to categorize Misia as anything but female. Or should I say feminine. Where Lipstick Rose reminded me of knockout cheesecake models, Misia brings images of Art Deco fashion to mind- simple outlines using gorgeous top quality materials. The scent has soft to average projection but stays on me for quite a number of hours.

Spending time with both Misia and Lipstick Rose put me in the mood for classics and I shall share this precious song that came to mind.

Jo Stafford. You Belong To Me

Rose Nacrée du Désert Guerlain (Les Déserts d'Orient)

Desirability: Decant

Source: whatmenshouldsmelllike.com

A oud/rose/patch combo that went through finishing school.

Most perfume lovers are well acquainted with rose/oud/patchouli combinations from the coarse to the refined- well at least perfume lovers who have little or no aversion to oud. Guerlain's offering Rose Nacrée du Désert rests on a throne along with the upper crust. I'm biased where Guerlain is concerned, if Guerlain made it, it's well-made be it the revered classics or the newer offerings. I don't  necessarily like all that the house produces, for example the biggest strike out would be Chypre Fatal, however the quality is evident in all of them.

Rose Nacrée du Désert like a generous bosom barely restrained by its corset, spills over with luscious rose blooms, flooding the senses with their heady sweet smell. Dry sweet saffron, a non too pungent oud, earthy patchouli and a warm resinous base complete this well-rounded and sophisticated fragrance. It hints of rugged beginnings that were polished over centuries like the lineage of a self-made family that became "respectable" with time and money.

Rose Nacrée du Désert is undeniably luxurious and alluring. If I didn't already have a few too many rose/patchouli/oud combinations or if I had unlimited perfume funds, I would consider adding this to my perfume wardrobe. Still there's always birthdays and holidays!

Secrets de Rose Les Parfums de Rosine

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: pinterest

A soft musky rose that conjures up images of a boudoir, littered with ultra feminine articles like huge powder puffs, silk stockings, lots of pastel satin and feathers.

Source: pinterest

It opens as a deep purple colour imparted by fleshy and ripe dark plums and innumerable rose petals tumbling everywhere. 

This is also as potent as the scent gets, it starts to melt into the skin and remains as a whisper for the rest of its lifetime. The plums get eaten really quickly and the smell of fresh sweet fruit disappears after about half hour tops. 

Source: pinterest

I'm not disappointed as a balmy sweet amber arises that is both woody and musky. I keep thinking it smells like warm skin that had a languorous soak in a hot bath scented with rose oil. Even though I tend to stay away from scents with little projection (my chronic allergic rhinitis turns little projection into no projection, what's the point of scent if I can't even smell myself?), I appreciate that the soft sillage befits the mood Secrets de Rose creates, mellow and introspective and tints the world a dusky pink. 

Graceful, intimate and a much different character from the other Rosine I have, the plush and sociable Une Folie de Rose. I will reserve Secrets de Rose for private time.

Mimosa & Cardamom Jo Malone

Desirability:Full bottle and a back up

Source: pinterest

Never say never. 

I haven't been particularly inspired by Jo Malone before. Something about the sleek minimalist bottles and transparent juice did not speak to my soul which tends to seek out the deep, dark and darker. 

Until recently that is. I have loved mimosa since Une Fleur de Cassie and having quenched my recent thirst for all things roses, my attention was caught by these delicately sweet little yellow flowers in the form of Too Much, which I chanced upon in a blind swap. Since Too Much is out of production and the bottles on Ebay have exorbitant shipping costs tacked to the otherwise reasonable prices, I was determind to find another mimosa to love. Something as sunny and ethereal as Too Much. Mimosa & Cardamom was released at perfect timing in my case and I snagged a bottle during a weekend in Hong Kong, on a five minute break between eating and more eating. Heavenly. I mean Mimosa & Cardamom but yes food in Hong Kong is sublime too. 

There's nothing dark about Mimosa & Cardamom. It's almost like the scene in Stardust where Claire Danes bursts into light and floods the entire place with brilliant illumination which somehow kills Michelle Pfeiffer. But instead of pure white light, Mimosa & Cardamom is radiant with a golden glow that warms you up and turns you into a fuzzy marshmallow inside. The cardamom does not detract from the main focus but instead lends its aromatic spiciness to the subtle sweetness of the flowers. It feels like being surrounded by mimosa trees! Projection and longevity are both pretty good. 

Comparing Mimosa & Cardamom with Too Much and Une Fleur de Cassie, I would say that Too Much is more sparkling and a lighter yellow like champagne, whereas Une Fleur de Cassie is more of a darker honeyed gold and Mimosa & Cardamom being somewhere in between. All are fantastic mimosa scents!

Opus IX Amouage

Desirability: Full bottle

Source: pinterest

"But I, I took the sweet life and never knew I'd be bitter from the sweet

I spent my life exploring the subtle whoring that cost too much to be free

Hey lady, I've been to paradise, but I've never been to me"

 Charlene - I've Never Been To Me (lyrics stolen from MetroLyrics )

Opus IX in a song. 

I've long been in love with Greta Garbo and the dashingly handsome Robert Taylor in the film Camille, based on Alexandre Dumas' La Dame aux Camélias, which  Giuseppe Verdi turned into the opera La Traviata. 

Unlike Hester Prynne forced to don the scarlet letter, Opus IX wears her flaming red cloak with pride and much beauty. I am a big fan of Amouage (more correctly a fan of their dramatic and tempestuous creations that fly in the face of polite crowd-pleasers), a lover of jasmine and "stinky" scents as well as a complete sucker for romance ( I grew up on a diet of Judith McNaught). The animal is much alive in Opus IX but instead of grappling for world domination, it blends beautifully with a honeyed jasmine which provides just the right amount of floral sweetness and does magic up images of the snowy white camellias that Camille was never without, whether splurging on a massive bouquet or a stem tucked into a sash. A light layer of fine pepper breaks the lull created by the blissful union between the flowers and animals but Opus IX comes nowhere near as spicily aromatic as Nuit Noire nor as lusty. Opus IX focuses more on the highs and lows of the romance as compared to the never ending bondage session of Nuit Noire. From the first moment the scent caresses the skin so does the story unfold with bright flashes of vivacity and joy interspersed with shadows of melancholy that weigh heavily on the soul. 

I didn't delve into the story behind the creation of Opus IX before trying it on or writing this but now that I know that the inspiration came from La Traviata, it makes perfect sense . A scent of passionate love and hideous heartache that only too often go hand in hand. Artfully captured in the alluring yet tragic Opus IX. Massive projection and good longevity. This goes on the birthday wish list. 

Source: pinterest

Tolu Ormonde Jayne

Desirability: Full Bottle

Source: pinterest.com

Full-bodied. Smooth. Comforting. Regal.

A gorgeous medley of citrus and light florals on a warm and sweet vanilla-amber base,that casts a rich glowing caramel colour and shares DNA with Queen Shalimar. 

Smoothly blended with no rough edges to jar the senses but brimming with ingredients to the point it feels dense and inviting as compared to, let's say Amber Mystique by Estée Lauder which was a super expensive mistake on my part ( I got carried away by the deep red of the bottle only to be disappointed by the pastel contents, kudos to those who found it matched their expectations).

It's not unique nor is it particularly interesting and therefore in view of my limited perfume-designated funds I won't be hankering after a bottle (of course if gifted a bottle I certainly won't turn it down). However with its richness and superb quality, I still think it's full bottle worthy. Sillage is good and longevity is excellent, I went to bed with Tolu and woke up to this resinous beauty wafting smokily from my clothes. 

Fiori d'Ambra Profumum Roma

Desirability: Decant

Source: www.parfumneroli.hu

Having already tried and been won over by another amber from Profumum Roma namely Ambra Aurea, I had high hopes of falling in love with Fiori d'Ambra. Well it's not quite a love but it's a firm like. 

I don't particularly like overly powdery ambers and well Fiori d'Ambra did start rather floral powdery and dry on me, giving it a vintage air similar to the scented drawer sheets my mother used to line her armoire until they went out of production like a decade ago. Thankfully the powder blows away revealing a spicy floral heart both dark and beguiling with a strange herbal vibe about it that isn't unpleasant but is well, strange. A smooth semi sweet amber enters unobtrusively and with time the scent has this balmy "glowing coals in a grate" effect. 

It has a much smaller presence than the booming personality of its relative Ambra Aurea and Fiori d'Ambra seems to perform a appearing/disappearing act throughout the day so rest assured it lasts a good while even if discreetly. 

Fraaagola Saalaaata Hilde Soliani

Desirability: Decant

Source: Fragrantica

The listed notes mention salt and strawberries and I smell a candied version of strawberries (sweet but not agonisingly so, still it might appeal more to gourmand lovers) but salt...not quite a sprinkling of table salt however I am reminded of Garrett's Mix popcorn with the combination of Garrett's Savoury CheeseCorn and CaramelCrisp...so what I do get from Fraaagola Saalaaata is buttery salty sweetness. 

Projection is massive, so do be extremely careful when applying this, I accidentally sprayed one time too many and shortly after my family could smell it two floors below. It lasts and lasts and lasts...until you give your clothes a good washing. I slept in the same teeshirt and the scent carried over on to my bedsheets which meant I had lovely buttered strawberry smelling dreams for a few nights. 

La Religieuse Serge Lutens

Desirability: Decant

Source: Fragrantica

Sweet, soft and hazy. 

A musky floral- jasmine is there but much toned down as compared to A La Nuit which remains my favourite jasmine scent from Serge Lutens, other flowers I smell are mimosa both sweet and green and narcissus comes to mind too. If La Religious had a colour I won't pick the dark purple it comes in but rather rays of golden yellow and vivid green covered by a gauzy veil of musk that has the slightest bit of naughty, definitely a far cry from the reveling-in-my-sexuality Musc Koublai Khan.

Fragrances from this house have always inspired profound thoughts and triggered waves of nostalgia but La Religieuse failed to convert me into a believer. If I were not an avid Serge Lutens fan living on a tropical island where perfume releases take months to arrive, I would not have blind bought a full bottle but I am and I did. However no regrets and names/labels aside, La Religieuse is a nicely done floral musk that has a bit of a dreamy personality so I would recommend at least sampling it.

Tobacco Oud Tom Ford

Desirability: Decant

Source: www.buro247.ru

I met Tobacco Oud while visiting a friend during my travels and became pleasantly acquainted with it over the course of my stay. I had previously bypassed the grey-bottled Oud trio from Tom Ford partly because I was a little weary of oud and partly because I flinch at the pricing of TF fragrances. Yes the range has a few fantastic scents but seriously? Anyway I digress.

A heavy scent this one is. I don't usually give a stuff as to whether my SOTD would be better suited to colder temperatures than the tropical humidity I live in 365 days of the year but I would advise that less is more with the likes of Tobacco Oud. It does quieten down but that's after at least 3-4 hours into the wearing.

I smell tobacco, whisky and wood. A rich, sweet and aromatic tobacco that feels warm and rugged. The whisky in Tobacco Oud is a mellow fellow, I'm on the very early stages of the learning curve for whisky and I still wince at the perceived harshness of Scottish malts I've been introduced to, but there are no rough edges to Tobacco Oud, it's smooth, smoky and very delicious. The drydown is sweeter than when it first started and reminds me of incense rather than tobacco by this stage. On a side note I prefer this to Phaedon's Tabac Rouge that my friend is partial to but which I found to be a little on the sweeter side of tobacco scents and while I do have a sweet tooth I don't always indulge it and Tabac Rouge is a sweet treat. Despite the dark tobacco and smoky whisky I don't find Tobacco Oud to be brooding or masculine, certainly it doesn't conjure up images of cowboys, instead it feels like it belongs in a swanky smoking lounge or whisky club where luxury is like daily bread for the crowd there.

Phenomenal longevity, a potent beginning that lasts for quite a few hours before it fades but remaining noticeable for days! So despite me failing to discover any oud in Tobacco Oud, I still think this is worth sampling and definitely worth getting a decant at least. Since it lasts forever and a day, a full bottle may not be required unless you are of the happy breed that is content with just one perfume in your closet. 

Bois Satin Keiko Mecheri

Desirability: Adoption by a more appreciative nose

Source: www.basenotes.net

Syrupy leather.

I get boozed up syrupy sweet fruit followed by the smell of wood which is quickly followed by a smooth sweet leathery smell. Leather in fruit syrup may sound weird but that's what I think of in the drydown of Bois Satin. The wood notes that were present at the opening are nowhere to be found, probably fell victim to deforestation. I enjoy leather scents like Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie, Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens and I don't mind gourmand leathers like Dzing! by L`Artisan but Bois Satin doesn't rest easy on my stomach, I find the proportions of leather and fruit syrup too jarring here and frankly it makes me queasy. 

Average projection but longevity isn't the greatest, I clocked a maximum of four hours with two wearings.