White Musk Collection White Suede Tom Ford

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

Hot on the heels of two successful blind buys from Tom Ford- Champaca Absolute and Black Violet, White Suede was my third blind buy which is definitely shaped from a different mould. 

Almost a non perfume, White Suede smells of freshly laundered sheets gently swaying in the breeze on the clothing line. If you go up close to the sheets you might still get a faint whiff of an elegant and discreet floral scent, one with lots of hyacinth, galbanum and lily of the valley. It smells more like a wild meadow than a cultivated garden. Then there is musk, a clean musk reminiscent of how one would smell after a shower with Nivea/Dove soap. 

White Suede does smell like how my Isabel Marant Dicker boots smelt when they first arrived. Add a garland of wild flowers. It's a variant of Noa that I can wear (there's something about Noa that made me uncomfortable) but I don't reach for my bottle of White Suede very often as it doesn't move me. On the other hand it did make me think of a scene in one of my favourite movies "I Capture the Castle" and since the character favoured Penhaligon's Bluebells which could pass for the scent clinging on to the sheets. 

Scene from I Capture the Castle. Source: pinterest

Moderate projection and very good longevity.

White Suede is like abstract art to me, I'm sure there is more going on but I'm not getting it.

Al Ward Al Taifi Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Desirability: sample

Source: www.arabianperfume.ru

Very life-like but too soft for my liking, wearing Al Taifi is like having rose petals caress your skin leaving a faint trace of their scent behind. Emphasis on the word faint. Delicate, green and rosy, it's a youthful scent miles away from the so called "grandma" types of rose perfumes. Youthful but not juvenile, it has the same lighthearted charm as A La Rose but without the powdery floral aspect of the Kurkdjian. 

Both Al Taifi and Ambergris Taifi have the costly Taif rose as an ingredient, the version of Al Taifi I wore is an EDP whereas Ambergris Taifi is a perfume oil. Where Al Taifi remains linear and true to the scent of a rose throughout its average lifetime, Ambergris Taifi has its rose petals mixed with a creamy amber and an animalic edge from the ambergris. The latter also lasts pretty much forever from just a small smidge of the perfume oil. 

Lady Vengeance Juliette Has A Gun

Desirability: Sample

Source: pinterest

For rose patchouli lovers just dipping their toes in niche-land. 

Lady Vengeance isn't quite as menacing as her name or her appearance makes her out to be. On the contrary she is actually quite charming. A modern and refined blend of tender roses, patchouli so affable that even patchouli haters might be won over, gourmand vanilla and dries down to a balmy base of amber and musk tinged with the lingering scent of roses and earth. Beautifully combined in a smooth manner that only Francis Kurkdjian can. Lady Vengeance is a scent that you can wear anywhere, it is not too sweet and not too sexy, it is not too much of anything really. Projection is decent and longevity average. 

Looking back I might have enjoyed this much more if  we had met earlier on my perfume travels. Having been spoilt with so much choice in the rose/patchouli department, I have to say this is pleasant but there is a whole world out there to discover instead of stopping here. Which brings to mind a favourite poem by Robert Frost...

Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village, though; 
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sound's the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark, and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep. 

For me I have vials to go before I am done sniffing!

La Fumée Ottoman Miller Harris

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

This house makes decent fragrances but I haven't been bowled over by another Miller Harris scent since L'Air de Rien. Judging by the notes for La Fumée Ottoman I had high hopes that it would rock my world the way LdR did. 

It starts off with a bright bang of bergamot before taking you into the kitchen where the spices of the Orient exist. The cardamom and cloves are seriously amped up in the beginning and I wish the scent stayed that way, I dig smelling like an aromatic sweaty pig and I mean that in the nicest way possible. However the spices drift away too quickly and the scent evolves into a warm spicy rose backed with sweet incenseand woody notes. The drydown is lovely, the spices are faint shadows of their former selves but still giving an edge to the sweet blushing rose with amber and incense to complete the oriental vibe but it is muted in comparison to the opening and after about two hours it is a skin scent on me. 

The longevity is average but the sillage for La Fumée Ottoman needs to be improved in a major way to make sense of the price tag. A decently made and pleasant fragrance but it's not coming home with me. 

Trance J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

Trance has a boozy opening, thick and sweet like maple syrup laced with a fruity liquor. Fruity booze and maple syrup- a seriously powerful introduction! At the same time there is something that is strong and pungent as if herbs and leather were burnt together. All these potent and different smells create a dark (really dark) and deep fragrance, sweet yet medicinal, woody and fruity, heavy yet dry and definitely complicated. 

A faint rose appears midway but the most persistent and resonant is the unusual herbal leather note. As the scent evolves it feels dry and dusty like sawdust, the vegetal, leather and syrup notes enduring till the end. The drydown is dark and earthy similar to how patchouli can give that "earthiness" vibe. The rose is less timid now as if having bloomed over time but although it is easier to detect, I don't feel it ever becomes a dominant player in this scent. 

Trance was a weird experience with some nice bits along the way, the drydown being the most enjoyable part when things settled down a bit instead of out-shouting the other notes. Unfortunately the death knell for me was the herbal leather combination that was a bit too harsh for my stomach to handle ( I literally got waves of nausea smelling this each time). Good projection and longevity though and I am positive that on the right person this would be a commanding fragrance. 

Thundra Profumum Roma

Desirability: Sample

Source: www.profumum.com 

Thundra smells minty, fresh, green and waxy at the same time, like how aloe vera leaves look like outside and the refreshing, succulent inside. Exuding a meditative calm, Thundra feels more like an ambience than a perfume, like how I imagine sitting in the cool green woodlands in the Twilight movies (minus scary vampires and wolves) would fee like. Wood and the smell of earth enter the scent in the later stages, continuing with the Nature theme but warming up the scent a little as if the ice were melting in the tundra and allowing some life to break through the permafrost. 

Thundra is very soft on me, possibly the softest of all Profumum Roma scents that I've tried so far but the longevity is decent. Not my favourite from this house but I can see this being popular with those who enjoy quiet scents, nature and solitude. 

Wisteria Hysteria Comme des Garcons & Stephen Jones

Desirability: Sample

Source: en.colette.fr

Wisteria Hysteria sounds a lot more fun than it actually smells. After the great time I had with the eponymous debut scent, I was awaiting my sample of Wisteria Hysteria with great expectations.

 It smells like a an aquatic fruity-floral that would be perfect for a hot day when you don't want the usual citrus based scents. Fresh, green, sweet and watery. The crispness of the opening slowly fades away and I pick up spicy powdery notes that were also present in Stephen Jones but the powder is much toned down here in comparison. The aromatic spices do a lot in livening up the fragrance for me, I wasn't blown away by the introduction. White musk and a light incense are present in the later part and although the drydown is warmer and deeper than its introduction, Wisteria Hysteria never becomes engaging on my skin. 

The relationship I have with Wisteria Hysteria is like that with colleagues you have worked with for many years and there is mutual goodwill but you never bother to catch up with over the weekend as there is a lack of warmth to push the relationship into the "friends" territory. Overall it is a pleasant scent but I much prefer the unique and quirky Stephen Jones. 

Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection Etat Libre d`Orange

Desirability: Sample

Source: iperfume.ru

Unless my sample was labelled wrongly, Rossy de Palma has to be the tamest scent that I've tried from Etat Libre d'Orange ever. I kept waiting for a twist in the tale but the lack of shock tactics was notable from the start to its drydown.

Rossy de Palma is a peppery spiced rose, whose place on the "Scoville" score of spiciness lies between Paestum Rose by Eau D'Italie on the milder side and Epic Woman by Amouage on the spicier side. Pasteum Rose is too mild tempered for my liking and Rossy de Palma is more affordable than Amouage, so it is a good in-between scent if you are having problems deciding between them. Rossy de Palma opens with a peppery spiciness tinged with the sharpness of fresh-cut ginger. There is a green rose that appears from behind the spices, a little sour, a little sweet and plenty realistic as if you were leaning in to smell the rose itself perched on its bush, the scent of wet dirt type of patchouli rising from below. Mingling with these smells is a gentle breeze carrying a light incense that completes the picture of Rossy de Palma. 

I've heard the scent termed so many things from sensual to cozy and I believe it encompasses both and everything else in between. It has a moderate projection but a decent longevity and I feel it can be comfortably worn by both males and females. A nicely done spiced patchouli rose that doesn't go screechy or powdery like some roses do but despite singing its praises, my heart and purse still belongs to the opulent, breathtakingly beautiful Epic Woman.

Trivia: The Scoville scale is a measurement of the spiciness of a particular food or chili pepper, measured in Scoville Heat Units (SHU) which is related to the concentration of capsaicin in the food but is an imprecise method of of measurement in contrast to methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography. 

Rausch J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

Sweet, heady stuff that is not for the faint of heart but possibly faint-making when worn by the right individual. Projection is phenomenal and longevity is very good, be careful when applying as it's hard to scrub off.

Lightly spiced and smoky wood notes, a dense moody amber as thick as syrup and the smell of sweet leather make up this potent if none too complex scent that conjures up images of the stereotypical bad boy that all good girls want to look after despite their survival instincts telling them to run for the hills.

There's a burnt rubber note that lingers in Rausch and I can't decide if I like it or not but overall this is a dark and bold unisex fragrance ( I say unisex but the guy who wears this must be able to take sugar with his scents) that isn't particularly original but is undoubtedly good. 

Terralba Masque

Desirability: Sample

Source: twistedlily.com

"Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair." Khalil Gibran

Refreshing. Citrus. Woody. Aromatic. Herbal. Salty? Breathing in Terralba feels as stress-relieving and invigorating as practising ujjayi breathing. A cool salt-encrusted breeze carried in from the sea, tinged with sour citrus fruit, filtered through endless forests green and brown before reaching you sitting perched on a rocky ledge with an eagle's eye view of miles of unspoiled nature. I'll put a gin and tonic in the picture as juniper is egging me on to give it airtime. 

I would like this as a room fragrance or to smell it on another person but not something to wear personally. I need my intense brooding Orientals and this as pleasant as it is, is too vegetal! Still, I recommend at least sampling this. Uniquely weird yet nice. 

Opium Eau D'ete Summer Fragrance 2003 Yves Saint Laurent

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

Opium on a diet for super hot and humid days when you don't want to asphyxiate those around you with the original. Most days I don't give a stuff whether people around me mind what I'm wearing but there are occasions where one must be toe the line or suffer horrid non TGIF consequences hence why I'm wearing this today. 

Sweet woody myrrh, refined and oriental-esque, lightened by the presence of sunny yellow-green citrus notes and luminous white flowers. Carnation makes known its presence with its distinct spicy-sweet floral powdered self and a minute amount of rich vanilla in the warm woody base. 

The DNA of Opium is still alive in this 2003 summer edition, a glamorous, well balanced ode to the art of perfumery with excellent longevity and OK projection. Those who found the original too much of a good thing may want to try this version, there are still bottles tinkering around on Ebay so grab while you can. Personally I prefer the original. 

CiocoSpesizissimo Hilde Soliani

Desirability: Sample

Source: Fragrantica

The opening of CiocoSpesizissimo smells quite similar to CiocoRosissimo except that the rose note is replaced with green aromatic spices. I scrounged around my mother's kitchen searching for basil to do a side by side comparison since basil is listed as a note in CiocoSpesizissimo (seriously where do these names come from?) but I can't honestly say I smell basil but I do smell green herbs( in general) and mixed spices sort of like an all spice blend. Same level of sweetness as in CiocoRosissimo, which is not too sweet at all, the chocolate here being of the bitter dark chocolate variety but whilst in CiocoRosissimo the chocolate does a disappearing act before the drydown, here it stays put throughout, keeping the green spices company. 

CiocoSpesizissimo has a light projection but good longevity and overall is quite natural smelling if unusual (mint chocolate I have tried but aromatic herbal chocolate?). Its piquancy mellows over time and the scent gradually grows cosier and woody, bringing to mind the smell of freshly shaved wood planks. The development from the initial verdant-ness to the woodiness in the drydown makes me think of seasons changing from summer's vivid greens and blues to autumnal reds and golds. 

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Mitzah Christian Dior

Desirability: Sample

Source: parfumglamour.com

Luxurious. 

Mitzah is a perfect ensemble of well-loved notes including patchouli, incense, labdanum and spices both sweet and well, spicy. 

A seamless blend of spices and deep amber colours reminiscent of the oriental perfumes from Serge Lutens but toned down a few notches in terms of spiciness, the sweet resinous labdanum of Habanita L'Esprit, the dark and soulful patchouli of Mazzolari's Lei. Smooth and dreamy, more on the feminine side, Mitzah is like the rich glowing colours of precious stones set in lavish Byzantine jewelry. 

Source: socialsciencesalpajes.wordpress.com

The only problem with Mitzah is it shares similarities with a few perfumes I have, so at this point I can't justify getting a full bottle, discontinued or not. Which is a good thing, my bank account reminds me in consolation. 

Ore Slumberhouse

Desirability: Sample

Source: pinterest.com

I've been searching for The One. I mean in terms of chocolate scent. I've tried The Body Shop's Chocomania ( a lovely malt chocolate), Guerlain's Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin ( it's more of a delicious boozy vanilla than chocolate on me and the jury is still out on whether I should splurge on a bottle), Montale's Chocolate Greedy and Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Amour De Cacao were both equally sweet milk chocolate on me, a little like wearing Terry's Chocolate Orange actually. Parfumerie Generale's PG04 Musc Maori was a dud on me, I smelt like sour milk and chocolate powder sadly. Histoires de Parfums 1969 Parfum de Revolte and Arquiste's Anima Dulcis are two spiced chocolates that I adore and En Voyage Perfumes' Café Cacao is a heavenly salted chocolate like the Lindt sea salt dark chocolate bars, but as delightful as they are, I'm still looking for the swoon-worthy one. 

Source: morningcigarette.com

Ore smells very strongly of wood, it feels like I've walked into a woodshop where all kinds of wood are piled up and the floor is covered with a layer of sawdust. There's a sweet tarry smell alongside the wood that makes me think of a polish or a layer of glaze over the woodwork, it's a little too harsh and pungent for my liking and I think this is the whisky note others are picking up. The chocolate is present but it smells thin or diluted and peppery, not quite the thick creamy chocolate I'm in the mood for i.e Ore is not a gourmand by my definition at least. Ore is interesting and unique without a doubt and I thoroughly enjoyed testing my sample. I won't recommend it as a gourmand but if you are looking for a powerhouse caramelized woody/boozy scent that's evocative of old Camel or Marlboro advertisements featuring cowboys or other macho sorts.